BEST VALUE
Plymouth English Gin $22 *** 1/2
82.4 proof 1 liter
Subtle and elegant with crisp, lingering flavors of citrus and juniper: a martini in a dinner jacket. (Importer: Absolut Spirits, New York)
Junipero Anchor Distilling $35 ***
United States 86 proof 750 milliliters
Smooth, clean and very dry with assertive, classic flavors of juniper and citrus: a martini with one eyebrow raised.
Cadenhead’s Old Raj Dry Gin $50 ***
Scotland 110 proof 750 milliliters
Powerful, muscular and hot, but in a good way: a martini with a punch.
(Preiss Imports, Ramona, Calif.)
Seagram’s Extra Dry $15 ** 1/2
80 proof 750 milliliters
Surprisingly complex, with fruit, ginger, juniper and citrus flavors: a martini with a thesaurus.
Tanqueray London Dry Gin $22 ** 1/2
England 94.6 proof 750 milliliters
Crisp with a hint of mint and juniper flavors: a martini peeking out from librarian’s glasses. (Diageo, Norwalk, Conn.)
Hendrick’s $40 ** 1/2
Scotland 88 proof 750 milliliters
Unusual, intriguing floral aromas: a martini in a Hawaiian shirt.
(William Grant & Sons, New York)
Gordon’s London Dry $12 ** 1/2
United States 80 proof 750 milliliters
Gentle and harmonious with cardamom and nutmeg aromas: a martini in a gray flannel suit.
Bombay Sapphire London Dry $30 **
England 94 proof 1 liter
Jangly flavors of mint, herbs and citrus, with detectable alcoholic heat: a neurotic martini. (Bombay Spirits, Miami)
Quintessential London Dry $30 **
England 80 proof 750 milliliters
Smooth and direct, but with an odd, bittersweet flavor: a martini with a blemish. (White Rock Distilleries, Lewiston, Me.)
Martin Miller’s London Dry $32 **
England 80 proof 750 milliliters
Soft and slightly sweet, with floral aromas, but not a hint of juniper: a martini in pedal pushers. (Skyy Spirits, New York)
WHAT THE STARS MEAN:
Ratings range from zero to four stars and reflect the panel’s reaction to the gins, which were tasted with names concealed. The panelists this week are Eric Asimov; Florence Fabricant; Pete Wells, editor of the Dining section; and Audrey Saunders, an owner of the Pegu Club in Manhattan. The tasted gins represent a selection generally available in good retail shops, restaurants and over the Internet. Prices are those paid in liquor shops in the New York region.