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PtldPlatypus said:
Gable roof is the plan. This is awesome. And we've been talking about the angled cross braces like you recommend, so I'm glad to see that you say they'll be helpful.

I'm also grateful that my wife has now decided we're going to take down all our arbor vitae before we start building. Gives me time to digest all of this information.
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you could also consider building your own trusses. There are all kinds of tutorials for that on the net, and youtube has a ton of DIY for trusses:

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=build+your+own+trusses

the big advantage is you do most of the work on the ground and not off of ladders. The disadvantage is you will look up and see all those framing members and gussets (although those metal gussets are less obtrusive than plywood gussets); it can look rather industrial. By the way, don't believe in any of those so-called trusses that don't have a bottom cord. That horizontal member is essential to prevent 'spreading' of the support beams in the center of span. And of course, that spreading would be accompanied by a sag in your ridge-line....ridge-bone-connected-to-the-beam bone/beam-bone-connected-to-the-post-bone

if you're clever enough, you'll leverage this project and all the work you'll do into your wife agreeing to let you buy a compound miter saw big enough to cut thru 4 inches of wood. That would be a 10" or 12" blade depending on the saw. Every DIY project a husband does should see him accumulate at least one power tool.

* important tip: make sure to crown all your beams, joists, & rafters. The crown (camber) should always be installed up. Which brings up another tip. You can just order all your material and have it delivered. But that way you have little control of the quality of wood you get. It's more time-consuming, but better, to select the wood yourself. That way you can reject boards with too much crown, too much wang, too many knots. etc.. Of course, if you have no way to haul all that wood, that's probably not an option. So then, if it's a delivery, bite the bullet and order extra of everything so you have a margin of error. Some lumber yards will allow returns with a re-stocking fee

* if you do go with a plywood deck and outdoor carpet (picture me sighing and shaking my head right now), make sure to glue the plywood to the joists. I'll assume 3/4 plywood (although you could go with 7/8 strand board). For a plywood floor, I'd always go with 16" o.c. spacing for the joists even though 24" spacing is allowed. Just feels more solid. And I'd definitely recommend tongue & groove plywood/strand. It's a pain in the ass to install....you'll need a long-handled sledge hammer and a couple of toe boards (to hammer against and protect the edge of the plywood). But the pain pays off because you won's have dips and bumps between the joists

* count on ordering more random 2x4 than you think you need. All your posts will need temporary braces, as well as rafters etc.. And you'll find other places to use 2x4 for infill blocking. Speaking of temporary, get a pound or two of 12d duplex nails (if you aren't using screws). They are easier nails to pull out. Speaking of that, here's your opportunity to get a couple of Gorilla pry bars to store next to your new miter saw. And you really need a good new 18volt screw gun don't you?

* another tip: there will likely be times when you'll be angling nails thru your boards to attach. Before you do, flip the nail over and hit the point solidly a couple of times to blunt the tip. This mitigates the potential of splitting wood. A sharp point will spread the grain of the wood causing splitting. A blunt point doesn't nearly as much
 
wizenheimer said:
you could also consider building your own trusses. There are all kinds of tutorials for that on the net, and youtube has a ton of DIY for trusses:

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=build your own trusses

the big advantage is you do most of the work on the ground and not off of ladders. The disadvantage is you will look up and see all those framing members and gussets (although those metal gussets are less obtrusive than plywood gussets); it can look rather industrial. By the way, don't believe in any of those so-called trusses that don't have a bottom cord. That horizontal member is essential to prevent 'spreading' of the support beams in the center of span. And of course, that spreading would be accompanied by a sag in your ridge-line....ridge-bone-connected-to-the-beam bone/beam-bone-connected-to-the-post-bone

if you're clever enough, you'll leverage this project and all the work you'll do into your wife agreeing to let you buy a compound miter saw big enough to cut thru 4 inches of wood. That would be a 10" or 12" blade depending on the saw. Every DIY project a husband does should see him accumulate at least one power tool.

* important tip: make sure to crown all your beams, joists, & rafters. The crown (camber) should always be installed up. Which brings up another tip. You can just order all your material and have it delivered. But that way you have little control of the quality of wood you get. It's more time-consuming, but better, to select the wood yourself. That way you can reject boards with too much crown, too much wang, too many knots. etc.. Of course, if you have no way to haul all that wood, that's probably not an option. So then, if it's a delivery, bite the bullet and order extra of everything so you have a margin of error. Some lumber yards will allow returns with a re-stocking fee

* if you do go with a plywood deck and outdoor carpet (picture me sighing and shaking my head right now), make sure to glue the plywood to the joists. I'll assume 3/4 plywood (although you could go with 7/8 strand board). For a plywood floor, I'd always go with 16" o.c. spacing for the joists even though 24" spacing is allowed. Just feels more solid. And I'd definitely recommend tongue & groove plywood/strand. It's a pain in the ass to install....you'll need a long-handled sledge hammer and a couple of toe boards (to hammer against and protect the edge of the plywood). But the pain pays off because you won's have dips and bumps between the joists

* count on ordering more random 2x4 than you think you need. All your posts will need temporary braces, as well as rafters etc.. And you'll find other places to use 2x4 for infill blocking. Speaking of temporary, get a pound or two of 12d duplex nails (if you aren't using screws). They are easier nails to pull out. Speaking of that, here's your opportunity to get a couple of Gorilla pry bars to store next to your new miter saw. And you really need a good new 18volt screw gun don't you?

* another tip: there will likely be times when you'll be angling nails thru your boards to attach. Before you do, flip the nail over and hit the point solidly a couple of times to blunt the tip. This mitigates the potential of splitting wood. A sharp point will spread the grain of the wood causing splitting. A blunt point doesn't nearly as much
Click to expand...

How many beers would you charge to go over and consult with him for an afternoon?
 
stampedehero said:
The railing is a good idea. You don't need railing if three or less step risers are in place. In NJ, we require railing four risers and more and guards if the deck is 30 inches high or more. The International Residential Code is what dictates what is acceptable. NJ has a more restrictive edition. I like the deck style!


Teko metal supports and Simpson Strong Ties recommend hot dipped galvanized nails as long as it's their product. The problem with screws is that the torque builds heat and can distort the screw. Additional live load weight further promulgates the distortion. Special products like Ledger Loks are made for decks that are attached to the house sill/studs. Nails made for deck joist hangers attached to ledger or side trimmers are acceptable. I would use metal supports and never rely on toe nailing or screws.
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I know that code but I really needed a rail even for one step before the landing which makes for two steps. Without the rail to grab a hold of and even with the aid of a cane I'd fall on my face crandc style on my concrete patio
 
SlyPokerDog said:
How many beers would you charge to go over and consult with him for an afternoon?
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I'd demand some form of grilled beast to go with those beers if it were me. Maybe some grilled potato to go with it. Yeah, that's it, meat potatoes and beer. What a great combo. Dessert? More beer.
 
wizenheimer said:
it's a long drive from Salem, so that alone moves the discussion from beer to single-malt scotch. And I'd have to be guaranteed to see an actual living platypus, not some fake one
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Hahahahaha!
 
yti34mo4yu751.jpg
 
UncleCliffy'sDaddy said:
2X6 on the joists and cross beams. If you can afford Trex, go for it. If not, use a good quality stain. Paint is NOT a good way to go on a deck, especially in Oregon. Paint can get slippery (Stained decks can get slippery also but not like paint IMHO) and can also chip and peel. Stain holds up better. Be very, very choosy with your wood when buying it. Take the time to sort through it as you buy to make sure you’re not getting any crap wood (split, dog eared, etc, etc, etc). Just my thoughts from p[ast experience.....
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If you google about the use of 2x4's, you'll receive all you need to know within 5 minutes about the support and size of support beams. 2x4 ain't gonna cut it. In fact, when converting my detached garage to a man cave/lair/office, I added a small loft that currently has a queen mattress. I read enough that I was talked into 2x8 beams, but sx6 should have been sufficient.

As far as TREX, do some research. Not all TREX is create equally. Even from the main producer. Make sure you pick a product that is specific to our weather, the exposure it will face specific to your yard, and the size/type of your project. A friend had a legit TREX product that started breaking down 4-5 years in because he did not consider several factors when choosing the TREX product for his project.
 
I don't want to overcomplicate this, but you'll need to consider the currents in the Gulf of Alaska, the locust breeding cycle, and the flight patterns at PDX when the cross-wind runway is used.

barfo
 
barfo said:
I don't want to overcomplicate this, but you'll need to consider the currents in the Gulf of Alaska, the locust breeding cycle, and the flight patterns at PDX when the cross-wind runway is used.

barfo
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Come on--you don't think I've already taken all that into account?! What kind of n00b do you take me for?
 
barfo said:
I don't want to overcomplicate this, but you'll need to consider the currents in the Gulf of Alaska, the locust breeding cycle, and the flight patterns at PDX when the cross-wind runway is used.

barfo
Click to expand...

Well, the currents in the Gulf of Alaska do impact our weather patterns here, so should these change drastically, it could have a bit of an impact on the structure itself.
 
IMG_4950.jpg
Rough photo. But here's what I build a few years back. 6x6's. 12 feet tall (we literally built this thing to the max in all directions based on city ordinances). We have climbing roses. Some hanging lights. We used big pavers as the "ground". Metal roof is common for pole barns and has a small slope (3" from front to back, so many jokes to be had here). Firepit with a schwenker. And on that back side (opposite of the fire pit), you can see a partial live-edge log. That's going to be a live-edge bar. And in that back corner of the yard.... a koi pond and waterfall.

The small structure on the left of the picture is a small structure that was built when we moved in. It had a small child swing, but we replaced with a swinging bench and are training a grapevine to grow up and over it.

Kinda messy at the moment, and I don't claim to be a great photog (somehow, my wife's pics of my work always turn out better than my pictures, or my work).
 

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BLAZINGGIANTS said:
View attachment 32214
Rough photo. But here's what I build a few years back. 6x6's. 12 feet tall (we literally built this thing to the max in all directions based on city ordinances). We have climbing roses. Some hanging lights. We used big pavers as the "ground". Metal roof is common for pole barns and has a small slope (3" from front to back, so many jokes to be had here). Firepit with a schwenker. And on that back side (opposite of the fire pit), you can see a partial live-edge log. That's going to be a live-edge bar. And in that back corner of the yard.... a koi pond and waterfall.

The small structure on the left of the picture is a small structure that was built when we moved in. It had a small child swing, but we replaced with a swinging bench and are training a grapevine to grow up and over it.

Kinda messy at the moment, and I don't claim to be a great photog (somehow, my wife's pics of my work always turn out better than my pictures, or my work).
Click to expand...
That's a classic gazebo.
 
BLAZINGGIANTS said:
View attachment 32214
Rough photo. But here's what I build a few years back. 6x6's. 12 feet tall (we literally built this thing to the max in all directions based on city ordinances). We have climbing roses. Some hanging lights. We used big pavers as the "ground". Metal roof is common for pole barns and has a small slope (3" from front to back, so many jokes to be had here). Firepit with a schwenker. And on that back side (opposite of the fire pit), you can see a partial live-edge log. That's going to be a live-edge bar. And in that back corner of the yard.... a koi pond and waterfall.

The small structure on the left of the picture is a small structure that was built when we moved in. It had a small child swing, but we replaced with a swinging bench and are training a grapevine to grow up and over it.

Kinda messy at the moment, and I don't claim to be a great photog (somehow, my wife's pics of my work always turn out better than my pictures, or my work).
Click to expand...
very nice! Ive built a couple over the years and my wife loves the miniature climbing Roses and boy to they climb...
 
BLAZINGGIANTS said:
View attachment 32214
Rough photo. But here's what I build a few years back. 6x6's. 12 feet tall (we literally built this thing to the max in all directions based on city ordinances). We have climbing roses. Some hanging lights. We used big pavers as the "ground". Metal roof is common for pole barns and has a small slope (3" from front to back, so many jokes to be had here). Firepit with a schwenker. And on that back side (opposite of the fire pit), you can see a partial live-edge log. That's going to be a live-edge bar. And in that back corner of the yard.... a koi pond and waterfall.

The small structure on the left of the picture is a small structure that was built when we moved in. It had a small child swing, but we replaced with a swinging bench and are training a grapevine to grow up and over it.

Kinda messy at the moment, and I don't claim to be a great photog (somehow, my wife's pics of my work always turn out better than my pictures, or my work).
Click to expand...

Uh huh.

We know @UncleCliffy'sDaddy built it for you.
 
SlyPokerDog said:
Uh huh.

We know @UncleCliffy'sDaddy built it for you.
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Nah. I could have used a hand, though. Lifting the 6x6 cross beams on top.... that was the only part I had help. We have one short step-ladder, so I let my (short) wife use that. I used a chair. Big mistake. When she wasn't quite tall enough to lift the very heavy 6x6 and dropped it (which I was not prepared for), I instantly regretted my decision to not borrow/rent/purchase the proper equipment as my arms were nearly ripped from my sockets. We still managed to get that beam, and the other beam, in place on top, fastened in place, before I called it a day (and pretty much couldn't do anything for another 3-5 days).

Needless to say, I went out and bought a taller ladder the next time I was at the hardware store (I've used it twice in the 2-3 years since purchase, but I don't regret the purchase, only that I was too cheap to purchase it prior to my gazebo project). Shortcuts almost always cost more than taking the correct pathway.
 
barfo said:
I don't want to overcomplicate this, but you'll need to consider the currents in the Gulf of Alaska, the locust breeding cycle, and the flight patterns at PDX when the cross-wind runway is used.

barfo
Click to expand...
murderous hornets...duh
 
Finally progressing on this project (I know you all were waiting for updates).

Ordered my lumber this week, got it delivered Friday, and started placing deck blocks today. LOTS of time spent leveling, aligning, squaring, adjusting...but I have 10 blocks down and 10 more to go. Might actually start building something this week.
 
PtldPlatypus said:
Finally progressing on this project (I know you all were waiting for updates).

Ordered my lumber this week, got it delivered Friday, and started placing deck blocks today. LOTS of time spent leveling, aligning, squaring, adjusting...but I have 10 blocks down and 10 more to go. Might actually start building something this week.
Click to expand...
What kind of material? If it's wood you want one of three: heart of Cedar, pressure treated or Red Wood. Also, you need to stain wood to make it last.
 
All my lumber is pressure treated. And I believe my wife actually wants to paint everything once its built. :sad:
 
PtldPlatypus said:
All my lumber is pressure treated. And I believe my wife actually wants to paint everything once its built. :sad:
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In one of the building code classes I took decades ago, the instructor pointed out that a piece of pressure treated lumber has never worn out. All Red Wood is very very good. Cedar is cheap but very popular. Cedar must be from the heart and it will last a long time but not as long as the other two.

Ours is made out of T-Rex, an artificial material that lasts forever and can be pressure washed as well as looks like natural wood. Given unlimited money I would have gone for Red Wood. T-Rex was spendy enough.
 
PtldPlatypus said:
All my lumber is pressure treated. And I believe my wife actually wants to paint everything once its built. :sad:
Click to expand...

does that include your decking?

if that's the case, you need to talk to your paint supply store about painting pressure treated wood. I'm not a painter but in my experience, the biggest mistake in painting pressure treated wood is not allowing it to fully dry. Until PT wood is fully dry, the chemicals inside slowly bleed out and that would cause rejection of any paint and/or primer

To be safe, I'd wait at least a month unless the wood you have seems really dry already. Some recommend waiting 6 months. I think you can test the wood by sprinkling some water on it. If the water absorbs the wood is dry; if it beads up, it's likely not dry.

IIRC, to paint PT wood, you want a high quality exterior latex primer/paint....water based. I think oil base doesn't work well for PT, but again, talk to your paint supply store if you trust them. That would be a place like Rodda or Miller Paint. The clowns at Home Depot or Lowe's won't know much

there will be plenty of advice online about this, some probably better than mine
 
wizenheimer said:
does that include your decking?

if that's the case, you need to talk to your paint supply store about painting pressure treated wood. I'm not a painter but in my experience, the biggest mistake in painting pressure treated wood is not allowing it to fully dry. Until PT wood is fully dry, the chemicals inside slowly bleed out and that would cause rejection of any paint and/or primer

To be safe, I'd wait at least a month unless the wood you have seems really dry already. Some recommend waiting 6 months. I think you can test the wood by sprinkling some water on it. If the water absorbs the wood is dry; if it beads up, it's likely not dry.

IIRC, to paint PT wood, you want a high quality exterior latex primer/paint....water based. I think oil base doesn't work well for PT, but again, talk to your paint supply store if you trust them. That would be a place like Rodda or Miller Paint. The clowns at Home Depot or Lowe's won't know much

there will be plenty of advice online about this, some probably better than mine
Click to expand...
To your chagrin, I'm still going with plywood sheets for my flooring surface (although I've decided to upgrade to some 1.25" T&G underlayment), but I believe she wants to paint everything else except that. Good to know that she needs to wait to paint it though; hopefully she'll get used to its appearance in the interim and change her mind. Also as likely: me taking so long to complete this project that everything is fully dried and paint-ready by the time I'm done.
 
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